Only if you are using a blade with a solid steel core. A regular welded segment diamond blade is not designed to take the force of side grinding so it will break; however, Desert Diamond Industries has designed the Safety Blade with a solid steel core for this purpose. Side grinding on ductile, cast, steel, concrete etc. is no problem.
Hand Held saws: Husqvarna/Partner 1in arbor, Stihl- 20mm arbor, Makita 1in or 20mm Arbor. Walk behind concrete cutting saws: Husqvarna/MECO/Target 1in. Table saws: Makita – 1in, DeWalt -1in.
No. Not all diamond tools require water feed. If a blade is specified to run wet you must feed water to it or you can destroy the blade and the saw. On the other hand, if a blade is specified dry then you can run it wet, this will decrease dust, heat, and increase speed and life.
First, check to make sure the blade is not worn out, if so, replace it. Second, if the blade is still good but not cutting it means it is glazed over. Run the blade through an abrasive material (i.e. asphalt, masonry block, sandstone or dressing stick); this will expose the diamonds underneath. If the blade glazes over again during use, the bond of the blade is too hard for the material being cut. Simply dress the blade again by passing the blade through the abrasive material to expose more diamonds.
Dressing sticks can be found at construction equipment stores that sell diamond saw blades, otherwise you make a few cuts in an abrasive material such as asphalt or cinder block.
The bond is the combination of metals used to make up a diamond impregnated segment.
Yes. The speed and the life of the blade depend on having the correct bond for the material being cut. If you are cutting an abrasive material such as asphalt, block or sandstone, the bond will be made of harder metals. For more dense materials like concrete, stone and brick the bond will be made with softer metals.
Not necessarily, as long as the blade has not been cracked, chipped or warped it should still be good
A Plated and brazed tools are almost the same and utilize the same process for applying diamonds to the outside of a metal surface using a bonding agent (usually nickel). Sintering is an inexpensive low quality manufacturing process. Sintered blades have impregnated segments that are attached to the steel core by heating a powdered chemical to its melting point, which adheres the two objects together. Impregnated diamond blades are blades that have a matrix made of diamond and metal. As you cut, the metal will wear away to expose new diamonds (i.e.: concrete core bits and concrete diamond saw blades).
It depends on if you own a Stihl saw or another name brand. Stihl saws require blades with a 20mm arbor hole. All other hand held saws on the market require blades with 1 Inch arbor holes.
Vacuum Brazed diamond saw blade is a diamond blade in which the diamonds are attached to the steel core via a vacuum brazing process. This manufacturing process is higher quality & more expensive than the metal-bonding & electroplated manufacturing processes. A vacuum brazed diamond saw blade has segments which are coated with diamond, similar to if you can imagine an ice cream cone dipped in sprinkles. All of the diamond is on the exterior of the cutting edge, there is no metal-bond diamond mixture. Most Vacuum Brazed blade manufacturers vacuum braze individual segments, then laser weld those diamond segments to a steel core.
Depending on the cutting applications recommended by the manufacturer, cutting applications can range from concrete, brick, block, stone, asphalt, ductile iron, cast iron, plastic, stainless steel, hardened steel, copper, brass, wood, glass, tile, porcelain. Vacuum brazed blades do not have bonds that need to be matched for the materials cut. It’s a 1 blade does it all type thing, check your manufacturers cutting application sheet before attempting to use your blade on any of the above materials.
No, they can be made thin, but not as thin as an electroplated saw blade. The reason for this is because when thin metal is placed in a vacuum brazing furnace the intense heat & pressure cause the steel to warp thus only the highest quality steel with a proper thickness can withstand the vacuum brazing furnace.
Yes, The size of the diamond grit use will determine if the finished cut will be smooth & finished or rough & unfinished. A small grit will give you a smoother cleaner finish but will cut slower than a blade with a larger grit. A larger grit will give you a rough finish, but will cut very fast for you.
Yes. To cut all materials safely there is DDIs Safety Blade It is designed with a one-piece steel construction so it will never break during operation, unlike abrasive, carbide and segmented diamond blades. It is designed to cut braces, flat stock, hardened lock shackles, hardened padlock bodies, hockey puck locks, security gates, re-bar, chain link fence, stucco, concrete, block, brick, stone, asphalt, wood, drywall, car doors, ductile Iron, cast iron ,schedule 40 & 80 steel pipe, PVC, HDPE, C-900 plastic pipes, 2x4s, plywood, etc
First, check to see if the cutting edge has diamond on it. If the edge that does the cutting is smooth with no abrasiveness the disc needs to be replaced. Contact 1-800-654-5890 for a replacement
Yes. The Safety Blade is the first and only blade on the market that does not have a segment welded to the steel core. This will help eliminate segment loss completely
Yes. Desert Diamond Industries provides the 1st and only Life Time Operator Error Warranty in the industry. It covers any accident that may occur in the field. (i.e.: dropping the saw, getting it pinched in the material and having to pry it out, etc.)
Call your blade supplier and they will replace it for free. If they don’t you probably should not purchase from that supplier again.
Yes, always. It is extremely important to ensure you guard the diamond blade correctly at all times. A guard will help keep you safe from small debris and dust however if a regular, segmented diamond blade breaks, the pieces can and will go through the guard and cause an injury or fatality Click Diamond Blade Fatality Abrasive Blade accident detail
Always use a diamond blade whenever possible. Desert Diamond Industries diamond blades will outlast a minimum of 100 abrasive blades, will not explode during operation, produce less sparks, and lower operational costs.
No. Safety glasses are only suitable for protecting a percentage of the eye and do not cover against particulates getting in from the top, bottom or sides. Goggles offer the highest protection because they have the advantage of full eye protection and an elastic band holding them to the head.
Abrasive blades are commonly made of Silicon Carbide and/or Aluminum Oxide along with other materials bonded with resin and mesh to form a disc. This disc wears away quickly which is very dangerous and hazardous. A diamond blade is made of steel and diamond. The cutting edge of the blade is called a matrix, made of diamond and different metals for cutting masonry, concrete asphalt, etc. This blade will outlast anywhere from 100 to 1000 abrasive blades, emits very little sparks, and has no cancer causing Silicon Carbide Fibers.
Statistics reported to the Bureau of Labor show that almost 70% of accidents resulted from flying or falling objects or sparks striking the eye and that 40% of the injured workers were wearing some form of eye protection when the accident occurred
Based on OSHA statistics an employee is 6.3 times more likely to be killed and 13 times more likely to be seriously injured requiring hospitalization by an abrasive blade shattering than a diamond blade. Nonetheless, care must be taken anytime you operate a piece of equipment as serious injury or death may occur.
Anyone exposed to noise greater than 85dBA should wear some form of ear protection.
No. You should never use an abrasive blade for cutting any material whether it is concrete, asphalt, masonry, stone, metal, iron, etc. Abrasive blades are one of if not the most dangerous blade to use for cutting anything. Not only can they kick back from reactive forces but they explode very easy, emit a cloud of cancer causing Silicon Carbide dust, and emit a 10-25 foot shower of sparks.
No, it simply makes sense to do so. There are no safety standards with regard to general rigger gloves, but in the case of an accident at least they may afford some protection, however minimal.
Look at the cutting edge closely. You will notice a gap between the steel core and the actual cutting edge. This gap is the actual weld and generally where a blade will break.
The easiest way to do this is to slowly run your finger back and forth on the cutting segment; whichever direction feels the roughest is the direction the blade needs to be spinning.
It might be because the blade you have has been made with a true 20mm arbor hole. Check the saw blade and make sure there is not a bushing in the center of the blade reducing it to 20mm. If there is no bushing contact your blade supplier and exchange it with a blade with a 1 Inch arbor hole.